![]() One thing I know is that my ignorance is very great.and people really seem to be amazed by it. So when everything is buttoned up and sealed and the system is all bled and you are driving down the street and press the brake pedal.does clear fluid squirt up from the piston inlet port? I don't know because I never looked.but if it does then that is counter intuitive.right?!?!? The whole point of the MC is to force fluid down through the brake lines to the wheel cylinders/ pistons so if clear fluid is squirting back up into the MC reservoir than that fluid is not going to the wheels where it belongs. I know that there is supposed to be clear fluid squirting up from the piston inlet port when you stroke the piston and that indicates that the MC is completely bled.Great.Įven when you are doing the old "pump three times and push it and hold it to the floor" bit there is clear fluid squirting back up into the reservoir (that is why I always put the cap on the MC when doing the pump three times).but why? It really does not make any sense. OK.now to share some more ignorance with the community. Put about 2-3 inches of fluid in the bottom of the bottle, it acts as a air lock, open the bleeder and pump the holy shit out of. Take a 2 foot or so piece of vacuum hose and slip it over the bleeder nipple (5/32' works pefect) and drape the free end into a glass bottle (like a coke bottle). Unlike the video there were bubbles coming out for a long time with each stroke and then finally I could look down and see clear fluid squirting up from the piston inlet port at the bottom of the reservoir. That way the air keeps moving away from the master. It took way longer than the NAPA guy did in the video. Bleed and test.I did not have the fittings for the tubes however I still had the blue port block off fittings and clamped the MC into the vice and did method A. Adjust the adjuster until the brake drum just slips onto the brake shoes. ![]() This clearance take a lot of brake fluid to close during brake application. The rear brake shoes may not be automatically adjusting, thus, having excessive clearance between the drum(s) and the shoes. If the old front brake hoses were swelling, or had interior deterioration (both likely), the rear brake hoses are most likely in the same condition. Go to next wheel and repeat the procedure. Hold the clear hose in an upward arc and loosen the bleed screw 1/3 turn, and have your helper slowly push and release the brake pedal until there are no more bubbles (repeatedly loosening and tightening the bleeder screw is NOT necessary). To bleed, attach a (fish tank) clear hose over the bleeder nipple. Bleed each brake starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Remove the bleed lines and connect the regular brake lines. Fill the reservoir, and slowly pump the brake pedal until no bubbles come from the ends of the bleeder lines. Cut to a length so that the lines attach to the brake master cylinder, and curve back to the brake master cylinder reservoir. Get metal brake lines from an auto parts store, or from the brake master cylinder replacement package (box). That is, disconnect the brake lines at the brake master cylinder. You could bleed the brake master cylinder, DIRECTLY. One minor note that may or may not mean anything…during the first master cylinder bleed, after we were done, I was still pumping the brakes with the car running as it felt a bit spongey, and well, someone opened the fluid resovoir for the master cylinder and of course…brake fluid everywhere…we rebled right after, but could this have damaged the master cylinder? I’m being told the master cylinder needs to be changed, has failed, but I can’t see how it was working fine for the past year and now all of a sudden, when replacing the rubber flex lines, it fails. No leaks…we re-bled the master cylinder a couple times with no different results. You may need to do this several times before. ![]() At the next light, same thing happens…pressure seems to go away and comes back after pumping the pedal. The key is to keep pushing, and releasing, the piston slowly until air bubbles no longer appear in the brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal quickly and it builds up pressure in the pedal, the light goes away, and braking power comes back to a normal amount. The brake light was off, but when approaching a red light, apply the brake at a regular rate and the brake light comes on, pedal goes to the floor and very little braking power again. The test drive after was a BIT better but still not right. Took it for a quick test drive and the pedal kept going right to the floor, brake light on, and there’s very little braking power. Got the lines replaced, bled the calipers, but it still felt like there was air in the lines so we bled the rear drums and the fronts again. Hi all…was replacing the flex brake lines on both front calipers on my 85 Olds Cutlass Supreme (V8, RWD).
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